A friend of mine
called me to go and check on his TV, Due to my busy schedule I was not able to
go immediately and therefore he decided to ask for assistance from a different
source (technician).
Thank you guys, see you in the next class.
According to him the tech was coming to check on his fridge,
he also mentioned to him about his TV and he said he also repair TVs and hence
took on the new assignment.
According to the
owner he replaced two components, the STR-S6707 and the posistor. After installing
the two components the TV came up very well and after 10 minutes the TV was
down again.
The technician
figured out that the IC-STR-S6707 might have been poor quality and hence he was
back again to the market for another one.
Back again and installed it and fired the TV on and after 5
minutes the TV was down again.
Off to the market now more determined than before to get a
real genuine I.C and back and installed the new I.C.
Pressed the power ON
button and this time they only heard the high voltage fire and then dead,After this third
attempt the Fridge/TV technician left in hurry and never came back again.
After hearing this
story I made one conclusion, there must be something which is causing the I.C
STR-S6707 to misbehave and the most likely cause for this must be a capacitor
with has its ESR gone to the roof.
So the first thing I
did was to do an ESR test on all capacitors (electrolytic) on the power supply
and I bumped on one C623 (220uF/16v) on pin 4 of STR-S6707. This pin is the
sink pin of this I.C.
Below is the internal
structure of this I.C
Looking at the internal structure of this I.C you can see
that this sink pin is very important. It is internally connected to the base of
the drive transistor and therefore need to be well filtered of any ripple.
When I tested this capacitor with an ESR meter, my
hypothesis was confirmed and I replaced it with a new one.
Please remember in all this the i.C S6707 was not shorting
so the fuse was intact, it just stopped working.
After replacing this capacitor i tried powering the TV with
the dummy load attached to the B+ and nothing happened so I confirmed the ic
was also gone.
I went to the shop
and bought a new one and installed it and applied power via the series light
bulb and the dummy load on the B+, just to confirm if the power supply is now
okay.
After applying power
with my eyes fixed on the B+ load bulb, to see if it will light up, Sadly nothing
happened and I concluded that my problems are far from over.
One thing I was
sure of, the primary power section still has problems,So I decided to do
components test one by one and from experience, I decided to start diode test
for shorts.
Having very few diodes on the primary side I got one which
was dead short between pin 3 and 2 of the I.C STR-S6707 (D609).
I replaced the diode with a FR series diode which I salvaged
from the secondary side of the power supply of another TV board in my workshop.
Now I was sure I have got the final culprit and applied
power using the same method and to my surprise nothing happened.
Now frustrated I started doing voltage testing on the
primary side and I started with the voltage to the control I.C STR S6707. A
quick test on all the pins I was able to get voltages but I didn’t write them
down which I should have done.
I disconnected the board from the Set and took it out to do
some resistance test for any short on the board particularly on the primary
side.
When sitting outside my shop with despair on my face I tried
to recollect the voltage on the control I.C STR-S6707, and here is the actual circuit diagram of the power supply
using this I.C STR-S6707.
It came to my mind a
flash of small information of the voltages that all the pins of this I.C
STR-6707 had voltage?
Then I asked myself, you mean that ic had no ground pin
because I could not remember my meter reading zero volt, could it be there is
something shorted to the ground?
After doing some resistance test between every pin of this
ic to the ground, I was again not lucky.
Because this ic has been removed and installed many times I
suspected there could be a loose joint and therefore I decided to do resistance
test between each pin and the next component on that line.
When I reached the ground pin 2, I was expecting a beep but
I didn’t hear any,I thought; wait a minute could it be my meter is loose at
the connector? I checked it out and touched the two probes and I heard a beep.
Then I decided to be keen on this pin and using my
magnifying glass I was able to pick a very thin crack on the pcb track to the
ground pin.
After confirming this I felt peace in my heart and I said to
myself…this must be the end of my woes.
I went back to the workshop and connected a link to the
ground pin.
Then the moment of truth, I attached the dummy load and applied
power to the board with my eyes fixed on the dummy load bulb,It took around 10 seconds and the dummy load bulb finally
had light.
Truly that was the end my woes…I rushed to my audio machine
and played my favorite song to celebrate job well done.
Later I was on my way
to the owner to re-assemble the board back to the tube, I assembled the board
and applied power.
The TV came up well
and I was a happy man. This though did not take long before the TV picture
disappeared in front of me and the owner. The screen is now black but audio is
crystal clear.
I took a big breath
and sat back on his very comfortable sofa sets. These sets are too comfortable
for technician and I almost feel asleep.
As you all know technicians seat are not supposed to be very
comfortable otherwise you may sleep on the job with your hands creating a
jumper across the main capacitor…
After the nap I went straight to the small board at the back
of the tube looking for the heater bulb. Looking at the heater I noticed that
the bulb is not lighting.
I took a meter to test the voltage to that circuit and when
I was putting my probe on the heater pin, I noticed a very big dry joint
there...in fact the heater pin was just hanging there.
I re-soldered the dry joint and after applying the power I
was more than happy to see the screen with full picture and audio…
Lesson learnt.
Whenever you find voltage on the ground pin suspect an open circuit somewhere.
This repair history is pulled from the CRT TV Real Life
Repair Experience Guide Vol.1, You can easily add this book to your workbench
with less than $10 dollar today! Think I am kidding, click the book cover and let meet on the
other side...
Good repair Humphrey Kimathi. Congratulations.
ReplyDeleteThanks for your feedback Humberto and for passing by Humtech electronics, you are very welcome here.
ReplyDeleteRegards Humphrey
Wow, I rarely comment though am your number one reader, but this has forced me to comment, you are genius, thanks I have learnt alot from this, long live
ReplyDelete