I received an Aucma television assembled here in
Kenya in my shop for repair, the screen was blank and therefore I decide to
open it for further investigating.
The power ON light was green and therefore I
expected the power supply was okay and therefore after opening the set I went
straight to the RGB circuit.
Just before I was about to pull my meter to do some
voltage testing on this circuit I noticed that the heater light was ON.
Once I saw the heater bulb was ON I kept aside the
meter and proceeded to the fly back transformer looking for the screen POT.
I adjusted it slightly and the screen was now full
of light, but there were retrace lines across the screen and I guessed I have
set the screen voltage too high.
So I continued to adjust the screen voltage down and
still I could not solve this problem of retrace lines.
So I decided to continue with checking the voltage
at the CRT neck board, I started with the RGB voltages and I noted they are all
high.
I checked the voltages at the base of the RGB
transistors and I got Zero volts in all the three transistors. This explains
why the RGB voltage was high, since there was no bias voltage (base) all the
three transistors behaved as if they were open.
I followed back this circuit down to the jungle I.C.
The TV was using I.C TDA11105, on this I.C the RGB out were labeled clearly and
therefore I decided to test the voltages and still got almost zero volts.
I was not happy with this voltage and I was about to
begin blaming the jungle ic as the cause of the problem.
I normally do this as the last my resort and
therefore I was careful not to make quick conclusion about this i.c.
While still thinking about what next, I remembered
when testing the RGB connector at the neck of the CRT tube I was expecting at
the four pins at least the R to be around 2 volts,G=2 volts B=2 volts then zero
ground and around 8 volts.
I remembered the 8 volts was reading 4 volts and
therefore decided to do some testing on the line.
From the main I.C pin 42 was supposed to be 8 volts
and when I measured it I got again 4 volts which is still suspicious.
Usually when voltage drop can be a hint for a
shorted component or filter capacitor on that line has developed his ESR and
therefore I tested all the Capacitor with an ESR meter and all tested good.
Then I decided to do resistance test along the 8
volts line to see what is blocking this voltage.
When testing across one diode I noted the meter beep
on both sides of the diode and to me this was not normal.
Actually I was testing from the bottom side and
therefore what made me become curious is while testing for continuity I noticed
a beep when the meter was on the live line and when on the ground and this lead
me to conclude that there is a shorted component on that line and the ground.
(Tip, the best place to pick a shorted line is testing across the filter
capacitor between positive (+) and negative (-) leg)… any beep means there is a
component shorted on that line.
When I got the beep both sides of the diode
highlighted below. I decided to lift one leg
out of the circuit and re-test and indeed I still got a beep and therefore
concluded that the diode was sorted.
Looking on the circuit board I noted it was not just
a diode but a zener diode.
To know the voltage rating with this diode I figured
out that since it was for 8 volts source then it must be rated around 8.2 volts
and went to the shop to get one since I did not have this in my store.
I replaced the zener diode and applied power and I
was happy with what I show on the screen…Back to normal.
Hi Mr Humphrey as always your articles are very interesting and informative and wish you would post more frequent articles as I like your detective work to find the culprit.
ReplyDeleteThanks Marco your feedback, Request noted.
DeleteRegards Humphrey
dear Humphrey ,
ReplyDeletethanks for this info.you are making my (others )life easier when faced with similar problems .we will not waste much time trying to experience new things but to go straight to the touch points,thank you again.
Thanks and welcome Ennest for your feedback. all the best.
DeleteRegards Humphrey
Thanks with this great article! May God always love those person who is kind all the time...Regards,Mhel
ReplyDeleteThanks for the blessings Romel, God bless you too.
DeleteRegards Humphrey
This wasn't an easy fix.it tell me that voltage testing its very vital
ReplyDeleteWell put my friend, voltage testing has no equal when it comes to troubleshooting.
DeleteRegards Humphrey
Humphrey I am always on this site looking for your newer teachings. How I wish I was still at MTK Hq. As at I could have completed my course you being the teacher.
ReplyDeletehi good day Mr. Humphrey...
ReplyDeleteyour a great in electronics...
can help me this kind of problem..
my brohter-in-law has a junk 29" china tv brand is meque.
they junk this tv and buy a new one..
this tv has flyback transformer problem.
they bring this to a technician and the problem came out a flyback transformer is dead. ater almost 4 yrs they decided to repair this tv but unfortunately
the flyback transformer has been mis placed. i was able to replace it
but i dont have any part number of that FBT.
can you help me this problem??
hi mr.humphrey..
ReplyDeletecan you help me my problems??
i am also getting zero volts at RGB output. There is no any component short. Is it LA76810a got short or any other component. Actually i swapped 8v and zero volt cables and problem aroused.
ReplyDeleteAh sir may I know what is the normal voltage of RGB? Is that 8 volts from the jungle Ic the same in the crt socket?
ReplyDeleteReally Thanks Very much. Keep it on!
ReplyDeleteSansui crt tv hard rock21 horizentalline problem but 78040 ic ok tuner volt5v missing give me solution
ReplyDeleteHi mr Humphrey sir, I have a crt tv that shows green power LED but the screen is totally blank. The heater lamp doesn't light as well.
ReplyDeleteI can't seem to identify the cause for this. Any assistance is highly appreciated.